Road tripping Italy’s quiet coast

Home to the postcard perfect pastel villages colouring the Amalfi coast, the handful of beautiful towns clinging to the Cinque Terre cliffs or the island playground of the wealthy, Capri, Italy’s west coast never goes out of fashion. Tourists fly, drive and cruise their way west every summer. But for those looking for a more relaxed pace and reasonable prices without missing out on beautiful beaches, ancient ruins and mouthwatering food, go East. Life is actually a little more peaceful there.

West to East

We dipped our toes in the waters of the West, staying on the Amalfi coast for a few days. Renting an apartment in the tiny fishing village of Atrani (10 minutes from Amalfi), we woke to the sound of church bells, roosters crowing and locals greeting each other in the street below. We bought fresh fruit, vegetables, meats, cheeses and even a locally made sparkling wine for a fraction of the price of other villages to the North. We drank coffee in the main piazza and ran the trails winding up the hill to Ravello, rewarded with a breathtaking panorama from the village in the clouds. However, during day trips to Positano and Amalfi we were met with overcrowded streets and cafes serving snacks with a side of tourist tax. We were curious to see how the other coast compared.

Bari

Bari is a good place to start your stay. The port city is the capital of the Puglia region and it generally offers less expensive accommodation than nearby beach towns of Monopoli and Polignano a Mare, just a short drive away. Bari is also home to two must-see historical landmarks, the medieval Castel del Monte and the Basilica di San Nicola.

Polignano a Mare

Get your camera ready! You’ll wonder why you haven’t heard more about the enchanting seaside town of Polignano a Mare, just 30 minutes drive from Bari. Perched on the limestone cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea, each cobble stone street corner frames a new photo ready scene. Join the locals on the beach, sunning on the sand or wading into the warm water (there’s none of that chilly west coast swimming here), wander the streets of the old town, grab a gelato from the famous Bar Turismo or savour local organic food and wine at the gorgeous Mint cafe.

Gravina in Puglia

To avoid the crowds altogether take a short drive inland. There are a number of quiet medieval towns, not far from the seaside. We spent a night in Gravina in Puglia (an hour from Bari). People watching in Piazza Notar Domenico it was clear we were the only foreigners in town. Locals passing in their Saturday night best were just as interested in us as we were in them. We feasted on traditional fare at Osteria Sant'Agostino di Nicola Santeramo. There’s no menu. You simply choose an entree or antipasti and plates full of fresh, flavourful local fare begin to flow from the kitchen. Explore the tiny streets on foot and cross the aqueduct bridge for a great view back on the ancient walled city.

Silvi Marina

A few hours North of Bari and directly across country from Rome you’ll find Silvi Marina in the Abruzzo region. The sleepy beachside town of Silvi Marina welcomes Italian city dwellers looking for an escape from the oppressive summer heat. Bed and breakfasts sit side-by-side along the promenade, just footsteps from the sand. Some even reserve beach chairs and umbrellas by the water for you when you book your room, so you don’t have to wake at dawn to race and reserve a spot. It’s no surprise Silvi is a popular destination for families. The water is shallow and flat and the beach is patrolled. Many find the area so safe, they leave their children’s toys out at night ready for the following day.

If you’re looking for a flashy destination with fancy restaurants, five-star resorts and super yachts moored in every port, the Amalfi could be a better fit for you. However, if you’re hoping for an Italian destination where you can simply embrace La Dolce Vita, consider a road trip up the quieter coast.

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Skye is a journalist and wellness wanderer -- Travelling the globe to discover the best in health, wellness, food and luxury travel.

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