Cockatoo Island: Glamping on Millionaire’s Row

Cockatoo Island on Sydney Harbour. Photo: Supplied
Cockatoo Island on Sydney Harbour. Photo: Supplied

For one night I got to experience a taste of how the other half live.

Despite being in the midst of one of Sydney’s coldest cold snaps this year, I thought it would be a fun idea to camp in the middle of Sydney Harbour with nothing but a tent and hot water bottle to protect me from the chill – and it was amazing.

For one night only I stayed in a glamping tent on Cockatoo Island.

Glamping tents on the waterfront. Photo: Chris Ashton
Glamping tents on the waterfront. Photo: Chris Ashton

A UNESCO World Heritage Listed site known for its proud ship-building heritage, Cockatoo Island is now welcoming weary travellers to linger longer in its purpose built glamping tents along the waterfront – or Millionaire’s Row as I like to call it.

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I admit I’ve never been the biggest fan of camping. It’s nice and all, but when your knot skills have never moved beyond the granny knot, it’s sometimes better to admit defeat and leave it to the professionals. Glamping on the other hand, I can fully endorse. It offers all the fun of camping with no assembly required.

A two-person glamping tent. Photo: Chris Ashton
A two-person glamping tent. Photo: Chris Ashton

After arriving via ferry and checking in at the Visitor Information Centre, you’re provided with a map, a battery operated lantern, and a key to the padlock of your pre-erected glamping tent. Number 8 was my lucky number for this trip.

Inside, the two-person tents feature two raised camp beds with all linen, quilts and towels provided, along with a thicker blanket and water bottle in winter. While the length of the camp beds aren't ideal for those of us over six feet tall, unless you like to dangle your feet, they are comfortable enough to get a good night sleep.

Industrial sculptures by the campground. Photo: Chris Ashton
Industrial sculptures by the campground. Photo: Chris Ashton

Toiletries from Australian brand Appelles Apothecary, which now look right at home in my bathroom, are supplied to add a little luxury to the experience. A cool box (ice sold separately) which doubles as a bedside table is also provided to store any food items you’ve brought with you to prepare in the onsite camp kitchen.

To take advantage of the incredible location, each of the glamping tents also has its own deck with two sun loungers. At the end of the day, this is the place to be for people watching, viewing bustling harbour life, and witnessing incredible sunsets over million dollar houses – to the envious looks of passing ferry passengers.

Sunset from Millionaire’s Row. Photo: Chris Ashton
Sunset from Millionaire’s Row. Photo: Chris Ashton

Before enjoying sundowners though, it’s worth taking time to explore the island.

Visiting Cockatoo is like a crash course into the history of Sydney. Established as a penal settlement in the mid 1800s, it later transitioned into a service and repair location for Royal Navy ships, and eventually became the major shipbuilding and dockyard facility for the South West Pacific in WWII following the fall of Singapore.

Cockatoo is an urban explorer’s dream. Photo: Chris Ashton
Cockatoo is an urban explorer’s dream. Photo: Chris Ashton

Naval destroyers including HMAS Voyager and HMAS Vampire, both of which were longer than a football field, are just two of the noteworthy vessels constructed on the island. Another is HMAS Success, the largest ship ever built in Australia. Active to this day, the HMAS Success can still be seen in the harbour from time to time.

Shipbuilding continued until 1992, when the dockyard was closed. More than 40 buildings and docks were demolished, turning the island into a ghost town. Cockatoo dormant for a decade until Sydney Harbour Federation Trust assumed control of the site and embarked on the monumental restoration task at hand.

Sensational views from Cockatoo Island. Photo: Chris Ashton
Sensational views from Cockatoo Island. Photo: Chris Ashton

As a history buff, I found the island’s heritage sights fascinating. But even if you’re not big on history, there’s still plenty to see. For one, the views of the surrounding suburbs from the numerous vantage points are worth making the trip alone, and will no doubt provide more than a few additions for your Instagram feed.

Though my visit was brief, it certainly won’t be the last. Cockatoo Island regularly plays host to art exhibitions and major music events, including the Biennale, and makes a fantastic vantage point to watch the NYE fireworks display.

One of the disused workshops. Photo: Chris Ashton
One of the disused workshops. Photo: Chris Ashton

For more information, visit http://www.cockatooisland.gov.au/

Getting there:

Cockatoo Island is about 10 minutes ferry ride from Circular Quay. Regular ferries depart from Circular Quay, as well as several inner harbour wharfs. You can also get there by water taxi, private boat, or even under your own steam by kayak.

Things to do:

Audio tours about the island’s history are available from the Visitor Centre for $5, or you can skip the audio and simply keep an eye out for the informative signage.

- The writer stayed as a guest of Sydney Harbour Federation Trust

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