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Deer Mountain Inn: Taking on the Catskills

If there's one tradition New Yorkers can be trusted to follow without question every year, it's the mass exodus to the Catskills at the first hint of spring sunshine.

The Catskills, a mountain range in southeastern New York state, is known for three things: good hiking, good food, and large, luxurious lodges – the kind you sometimes see in big-budget horror films, minus the murder. (At least one hopes.)

Of these, the Deer Mountain Inn, in the hills above Tannersville, in the northern Catskills, probably makes for the most idyllic getaway one can hope for two and half hours outside NYC. The six-room lodge is set on 168 wooded acres, most of which can be explored by foot via winding trails and footpaths. There are lookouts along the way, and a charming stroll to a nearby lake, where, if one is lucky, one can sometimes spot the local deer taking a breather.

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But really, the whole point of coming here is to enjoy the lodge itself, which is magnificently decorated, and expertly serviced by a handful of friendly staff members. The rooms come in various sizes, depending on how many people you're bringing with you; we were assigned the Custer, a charming, blue-hued corner room with a Queen bed, antique furniture and a small, bright bathroom overlooking the property's back woods – perfect for gazing idly at the local fauna during your morning shower.

Photo: Deer Mountain Inn
Photo: Deer Mountain Inn

When not sleeping or showering, the second best place inside the inn is the upstairs common room and lounge. Mixing rustic chic with modern touches, this is large enough to accommodate all of the inn's guests, who can either sit around on the large, comfortable couches reading or watching DVDs (both the library and DVD collection are well-stocked, and reflect eclectic tastes), grab a drink at the corner bar, or take turns on the custom-built pool table. There's also a fireplace, which never looks out of place in a lodge regardless of what time of year it is.

A cosy fire pit on the patio. Photo: Deer Mountain Inn
A cosy fire pit on the patio. Photo: Deer Mountain Inn

Evenings are best spent in the downstairs bar and restaurant, which takes outside bookings. If the rustic ambiance upstairs is a 10, then this place is a 12: wooden tables, brass floor lamps, candles, overstuffed couches, two fireplaces and a taxidermied bear add to the mountain lodge charm, capped off by a thoughtful three-course menu with locally sourced ingredients. Think venison sausage with squash polenta, pork chop with roasted Brussels sprouts and apple molasses, duck breast with celery root puree, oven-roasted chicken with roasted chestnuts and foie gras truffle veloute. The flourless chocolate torte wins dessert.

The best time to come down for dinner is between 8 and 9pm, when the dining room is buzzing with couples, families and other city escapees. If you have to wait for a table, head on over to the bar, where the inn's resident mixologist can whip up an imaginative cocktail – either on the menu or off. (Just tell him what you like, and he'll make it happen.) There's the Lady Marmalade, made with mandarin vodka, Cocchi Americano, earl grey-lavender shrub and orange marmalade, or the indulgent Duck Fat-Washed Boulevardier, made with duck fat-infused corn whiskey, smoked vermouth, Cappelletti, and chocolate and orange bitters.

Sleep it off – and be ready to do it all again the next day.