Yahoo Lifestyle A weekend in Champagne, France
If the ‘pop’ of a cork, the ‘clink’ of crystal or the feeling of bubbles tickling your nose sends your heart a flutter, you probably enjoy a glass of French fizz. So if you’ve ever wondered how and where your favourite glass of bubbles is made, why not travel to the source and take a tasting journey through Champagne, France?
Champagne is the only region in the world that can produce the sparkling wine called “champagne”. The blends and the processes are unique. The official champagne production area covers 35,280 hectares of UNESCO listed land and the first vines were planted between the 1st and 4th centuries.
We left Paris in the late afternoon, just as the sky was turning a watermelon pink over the fields in the rear view. The mist was setting in but we could just make out the vines populating the hills about two hours outside the capital. With only a long weekend to explore the region we split our time between Reims (pronounced ‘rance’) and Epernay where we could visit both the big houses and smaller producers.
Reims
A trip to Champagne is just as much about fine dining, fine art and history as it is about wine. The historic city of Reims offers a perfect blend of all of those elements. The city dates back to 80 BC. Sitting in the shadows of the historic Cathedral Notre Dame (built in the 13th century), you will find Michelin Star restaurants, art galleries and champagne houses the likes of Pommery, Taittinger, Veuve Clicquot and GH MUMM.
Domaine Pommery was our first tasting stop. The history of how the brand and business was built by widow Louise Pommery in 1858 was inspiring and the visit to the cellars was a feast for the senses. A very cool ten degrees, the smell of soil and air thick with moisture hits the nose with each step down to the cellar. Dusty bottles lay, carefully stacked in dark alcoves, illuminated at intervals by the trademark Pommery blue light. The producer proudly combines their passion for champagne with showcasing art. Through each new archway, you will find an art installation, sculpture or painting projected on to the walls of the cave.
Taittinger is one of the last of the larger houses that remains independent (many well known names now come under the LVMH umbrella). Walking through their cellars, remnants of the property’s former life as the Saint Nicaise Abbey in the 13th Century remain. From staircases carved out of the chalk walls, etchings left by former inhabitants, statues and an old iron gate, the tour takes you on a journey through the city’s history, not just the brand itself.
Epernay
Epernay is often regarded as the champagne capital. The cute town is just 30 kilometres from Reims and a great choice for a romantic weekend in champagne. Bed and breakfasts offer views of the vines and a more cosy, small town atmosphere. A simple stroll down Avenue de Champagne will take you past producers likes Moet et Chandon, Pol Roger, Mercier and smaller houses such as Champagne A. Bergere.
Our tour of Moët & Chandon was my favourite (albeit the most expensive). Their unique fermenting process (longer than any of the other houses) as well as the tasting notes of each blend are carefully explained. Their caves are the largest in the region, covering a huge 28 kilometres and they produce 50 per cent grands crus and 25 per cent premiers crus.
Just around the corner we sat down to a three course long lunch (and a glass of champagne, of course) at La Grillade Gourmande. The food was incredible and with chef Christophe Bernard regularly coming out to personally check on diners, I can understand why it was booked out. Restaurant Chex Max is another favourite in the town.
After lunch we drove up to Maison du Champagne Charles Mignon. Charles Mignon is the 20th largest producer in the area. The beauty of visiting the smaller producers is you will only pay per glass for a tasting (about 5 euros), you will likely have more personalised attention and you can buy a bottle or two to take with you, without stretching your funds too far.
Tips for a trip to Champagne
Trains run between Paris, Reims and Epernay. However, I highly recommend hiring a car. You will have more scope to visit smaller producers, rather than just the smaller houses in the heart of Reims or Epernay.
Book your visits to the bigger houses the day before. You will pay a tasting fee at most houses. The price will vary depending on your palate and the prestige of the house - starting at about 15 euros per person. Generally, a walking tour of the cellar lasts an hour. A guide takes you through the cellars, explaining the history and individual production process of each house. The tasting follows. Not all houses have lifts down to the cellar so if you aren’t very mobile, check that before booking.
Restaurants in the area only serve lunch between 12pm and 2pm. You will need to reserve a table for lunch and dinner as restaurants are small and sometimes only doing one seating. If you miss the 2pm deadline, you may be able to find a charcuterie board at a wine bar.
For a full list of the champagne houses and their locations, click here.
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